The Hamam
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Bathing in its purest form: Istanbul’s Cagaloglu Hamam in the 19th century. It hasn’t changed much.
From the fountain in the vestibule to the ornate brass spigots that line the walls along the marble-covered interior to the heated marble platform under the steam-filled dome to the plush towels, fragrant tea, and lemon cologne afterwards, a visit to one of Istanbul’s historic hamams is a sensuous experience not easily forgotten.
Cagaloglu (pronounced “jaalóhlu”), which dates to the 18th century, along with Çemberlitaş, which dates to the 16th century and has been attributed to Sinan, are two of Istanbul’s most historic hamams. Both are popular with tourists, with Cagaloglu being slightly more expensive, though both were a bargain compared to spa visits elsewhere in the world. It is also worth noting that while the vast majority of Istanbulites now bathe in the privacy of their own homes, the historic hamams are not just for tourists. Many locals, especially athletes, appreciate the hamam experience, especially the vigorous rubdown that, for a few extra dollars, is often the most memorable part of the visit.
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It amazes me how often I talk to people who have gone all the way to Turkey only to ignore the hamams. Perhaps, Americans have been trained to think of “bathhouses” as sordid, dirty, and inherently unsafe. Turkey’s hamams are clean, well-maintained places that are simultaneously dignified and relaxed, sensuous but not sleazy, where decorum and strict Islamic notions of modesty prevent even the slightest impropriety from disrupting the sanctity and fellowship of the steam.
For more information, visit www.hamam.com.
5 Comments:
I enjoyed your ebullient piece on hamams, but feel your reverence for the hamams of Turkey is a bit overstated.
"Turkey’s hamams are clean, well-maintained places that are simultaneously dignified and relaxed, sensuous but not sleazy, where decorum and strict Islamic notions of modesty prevent even the slightest impropriety from disrupting the sanctity and fellowship of the steam."
C'mon now, I visited a number of hamams in Turkey a few years (3-4) back, and I hate to burst your idealistic pro-Ottoman bubble, but there are certainly a fair share of sleazoid hamams where the "strict Islamic notions of impropriety" fail to contain dark corner hand-jobs and steam-room fellatio. Let's not allow our own subcortical enthusiasm for steamy subdued nakedness to overlook the reality that many modern hamam present--international sex-capades with a diaphanous "old-world" theme.
First of all, I don't know many Greeks that entertain idealistic pro-Ottoman bubbles.
Moreover, there is a difference between a hamam and a "sleazoid" sex club/bath house with a "hamam" theme. I don't know where you visited, because you did not specify. Perhaps you visited a genuine hamam. I do know, however, that Istanbul has its fair share of sex clubs that could not, by any stretch of the subcortical imagination, be considered hamams.
Where are you at? There is a Hamam or Russian/Turkish Bathhouse right by my place here in Chicago. Frank Sinatra, Jesse Jackson, and Al Capone used to go there all the time. Perhaps I will go tomorrow.
Etienne,
Read the blog. says he is in Boston.
Great Blog!!
Best wishes from a turkish (gay) in Germany and a huge amanes ( gazel) fan..
Ernes
www.myspace.com/gbastile
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